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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.