Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
